Helda beans. Perhaps I’ve seen them quaintly illustrated in an old farmhouse cookbook, but I hadn’t seen them in the flesh, or eaten them, until just a few years ago. They have many names—romanos, flat Italians, etc—and they aren’t something you’ll likely find in your local Key Food.* It’s a bit of a mystery when they'll appear at the farmer’s market. But when I do see them, I always grab a bag. Their hearty, verdant good looks appeal to me, and that is enough of a reason to take them home and experiment, whatever they’re called. 

As opposed to asparagus, snap peas, and other early spring treats, which require only a quick steam, stir fry, or roast, Helda beans like being cooked until soft, as if they are just tough, overgrown green beans (they’re not). To me, they give a ratatouille/caponata vibe—best with savory flavors and stewy treatments—rather than the squeak-in-your-teeth vibe of a regular snappy green bean. The sun-drenched flavors of early summer produce go well with them: sweet cherry tomatoes, herbs, Japanese eggplant, peppers.

In this version, I crisp up a tiny bit of pancetta, then slowly cook some onions in the fat until they’re brown and soft. In go the beans, whole grape tomatoes, and garlic, cooked until all is on the verge of collapse. Lots of fresh basil, a necessity here, and a bit of crumbled feta at the end (as well as whatever pancetta you haven’t nibbled away) brings it all together. No accompaniment is needed, though I’m sure it would be delicious on top of soft polenta. It’s good hot or cold, but maybe best at room temperature, as are many cooked vegetable dishes like this, ideal for lunch on a screened-in porch near a craggy New England beach. 

Like tomato sandwiches, corn fritters, and peach crisps, this sort of food is unfussy, rustic, and made with what’s in season. It’s often some of the best. 

Heldas with Pancetta, Tomatoes, Basil, and Feta

Cook 2 to 4 ounces of pancetta in a bit of olive oil in a pan until crisp. Remove pancetta; reserve the fat in the pan. Add one diced onion and a sprinkle of salt and pepper and cook on low heat until brown and soft. Add 1 pound Helda beans, trimmed and cut into bite-sized pieces, along with a pint of grape or cherry tomatoes and a couple of cloves of chopped garlic. Cook on low until all is soft, about 10 to 15 minutes. A lid will help the process along if you are hungry. Stir in a large handful of whole basil leaves and the crisped pancetta. Serve topped with crumbled feta to taste. Great hot, cold, or room temperature. 

* They are available in the UK at the grocery store, at least lately.